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Cookbook references: Spicy coconut chickpeas; Chickpea tomato stew
Chana masala is a general term for chickpeas cooked with tomatoes and spices, and is also known aschole masala, channay or chholay. Originating in the Punjab region, it is prepared in a variety of ways across the subcontinent. There are many varieties of chickpea that may be included when preparing this recipe, such as ‘desi chana’ which is black, green or specked, and ‘kabuli chana’, which is large and tan-coloured, with a smooth coat.
This dish (or family of dishes) has a history as rich as its flavour. An early recipe for a chickpea curry is documented in Nimatnama-i-Nasiruddin-Shahi (Book of Delights), a late 15th-century Persian manuscript. The chickpeas were spiced with coriander, black pepper, and asafoetida. From the 16th century onwards, the Mughal empire introduced Persian culinary techniques, and onions, garlic, and ghee became incorporated into Indian cuisine. Portuguese traders contributed tomatoes and chillies, further influencing the flavours. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Chana masala emerged as a popular street food in northern India, often served with bhature (deep-fried bread) or kulcha (leavened flatbread). |